Funicular without a funicular. This is the name by which one of the most well-known places in Abkhazia is recognized. The Sukhum1 Mountain improvement projects began in the late 1940s. A rather large park approximately 30 hectares in size was established here, in which ~100,000 rare trees and decorative plants were planted.
Huge multi-tiered staircases led to the top of the mountain from different sides, ornate street lamps decorated the sides, many benches and several luxurious fountains could be spotted throughout, and as the crown of it all – a vaulted arch colonnade at the very beginning of the road to the funicular and the 'Amza' restaurant at the top of the mountain.
The area, created through the hard work of virtually every working resident of the town, was considered almost elite. To come to Sukhum and not take a walk on the funicular grounds was like not seeing Sukhum at all. Getting into the 'Amza' restaurant was practically impossible; tables were booked several days in advance, and its panoramic views of the entire city were enchanting.
On the slopes of the mountain, there is a pantheon of prominent figures of Abkhazia, including writers and public figures – many of whom are buried there.
Funicular in wartime
During the Georgian-Abkhaz conflict of 1992-1993, the funicular was an important strategic target, and numerous battles took place on its territory.
In the battle near the funicular on September 23rd, 27 people lost their lives, and one person went missing.
Sukhum Mountain today
Places like the funicular hold great significance for Sukhum and all of Abkhazia. A place once filled with joy, music, and beautiful views has now become more associated with sorrow, memories, and the reminders of wartime events.
Although the funicular is still abandoned, in recent years repair and restoration work has begun. Many are pleased with these efforts, while others express concerns. Therefore, it is even more interesting to look at this iconic place through the memories of people because what matters is not only the events but also how people remember them.
Kamila is one of the people who grew up here and remembers what the funicular used to be like. She recalls those times with love.
She was living in the backyard of the old music school where she also studied. Kamila remembers the charming neighborhood of the place. People of the different nationalities living side by side drank coffee together in the mornings and watched Brazilian tv series.
In Soviet times Amza restaurant was a place with loud music where people had fun every night. “This was a forbidden place for us, our parents didn’t allow us to go there, but once in the winter we went,” Kamilla said.
In Kamilla’s childhood years different filmmakers from Moscow, Leningrad, and Tbilisi came to these places to film their movies. Now, listening to her recall the times when she was a little girl walking up from the school to the hills of the city, you feel that her life itself was quite cinematic too.
- Georgians call the city Sokhumi ↩︎